APICCAPS and the Portuguese Footwear Technological Centre (CTCP) held a demonstration event dedicated to new products developed within the scope of the BioShoes4All project, which aims to promote the transition of the footwear sector towards a sustainable circular economy. The event took place on July 3 at CTCP in São João da Madeira and included visits to two leading companies involved in the project, Monteiro Ribas and Procalçado.
During this Demonstration Action, which opened with remarks by Luísa Correia, General Director of CTCP, followed by Fernando Alfaiate, President of the Mission Structure – Recuperar Portugal, the challenges and opportunities of achieving a circular and sustainable bioeconomy in the footwear industry were shared and debated by various leading companies from different sectors.
The main goal of the event was to present the practical results achieved by BioShoes4All, a project within the 2030 strategic plan and supported by the PRR (Recovery and Resilience Plan), which seeks to propel the footwear sector towards a circular economy and sustainability. Luísa Correia highlights that BioShoes4All “involves mobilizing the entire value chain with a focus on the circular economy” and “represents a profound transformation in the way we think, design, and produce footwear in Portugal.”
Fernando Alfaiate emphasized the crucial importance of applying bioeconomy principles, noting that the project is “an exemplary case that could be featured within the PRR’s portfolio of projects, not only at the national level but also across Europe.”
The Demonstration Action included the presentation of the strategic social responsibility study by Graça Fonseca and Gonçalo Mendes from Because Impacts, followed by a presentation of the results achieved so far by BioShoes4All, by Maria José Ferreira, Research Director at CTCP.
Later that morning, a roundtable titled ‘Bio and Circular Thinking’ was held, moderated by Cláudia Pinto from APICCAPS’ communications department, with participants Artur Barros (Simoldes), Filipe Carneiro (LIPOR), Joana Meireles (Atlanta), and Pedro Ventura (Cartonagem Trindade).
Closing remarks were delivered by Luís Onofre, President of APICCAPS, and José Pulido Valente, President of IAPMEI. Luís Onofre stressed the importance of BioShoes4All and FAIST, which involve an investment of around 100 million euros, stating, “this will be one of the largest investment cycles ever in the sector and a clear vote of confidence in the future of the footwear industry in Portugal.”
The cluster, which employs more than 40,000 people, plays a significant role in the national economy, exporting over 90% of its production to 170 foreign markets. In this context, the development of new materials, biomaterials, recycled materials, and differentiated footwear and leather goods represent a key flag for the green transition.
José Pulido Valente, representing the Secretary of State for the Economy, left the Demonstration Action “with great pride and strong hope for the sector’s future,” highlighting that “what we witnessed here was professional preparation for the opportunities that will arise, in a collaborative environment among all sectors involved.”
The Social Dimension of Sustainability – The Challenge Ahead
Much is said about the environmental pillar, bioeconomy, circular materials, and the digital transition as the major challenges for the footwear industry. Prompted by APICCAPS, Graça Fonseca and Gonçalo Mendes from Because Impacts developed a study on the social dimension of sustainability. The study began with an international benchmark of best practices in the social area, then adapted to the Portuguese context through a survey.
To conduct the study, they defined a matrix of nine areas that structure the strategies and activity plans of major companies within the cluster. This matrix includes human rights, community support, diversity, equity and inclusion, social development and innovation, health and safety, fair working conditions, culture and know-how, talent attraction and retention, and the enhancement of the supply chain or value chain. Based on the results, they drew up recommendations for the sector.
As general conclusions, it was found that many companies in Portugal already include the social component in their sustainability reports and that, given European targets, the social dimension is gaining ground alongside the digital transition and circular economy. Graça Fonseca adds that “the social pillar is where companies can achieve the greatest connection and communication with consumers due to the inherent social values.”
Indeed, just as initiatives dedicated to new materials, recycling, or the environmental impact of the footwear industry are being promoted today, similar initiatives will be needed in the coming years to achieve social sustainability.
The study recommends that all companies should have a human rights code of conduct implemented in their organizations, run awareness campaigns and workshops on mental health, integrate immigrants (given the need for labor due to population aging), develop intergenerational mentoring (involving schools and knowledge transfer), as well as retain talent.
For Graça Fonseca, “the footwear industry should not only advance the bioeconomy process but also move towards the social dimension, ensuring that shoes made in Portugal are produced with equity, respect for human rights, and social cohesion.”
Preliminary Results of BioShoes4All
Maria José Ferreira, coordinator of the BioShoes4All project, presented the advances achieved, which are based on five pillars: biomaterials, circular economy, footwear and leather goods, advanced production technologies, capacity building, and promotion. Maria José Ferreira is pleased to report that “the targets set for 2024 have all been met, with technical implementation reaching around 75% to 80%.”
In terms of materials, the focus is on developing biofibers, polymers, and bioleathers by selecting by-products from the agri-food and agro-industrial sectors that are no longer suitable for human or animal consumption. Currently, there is also a strong emphasis on complementary materials, such as coated textiles with bio-based backing and high bio-content coatings like polyurethane. Six innovative pilot production lines have already been implemented, including bioplastics and biosoles, bio-EVA, insoles, and elastic dyeing.
Another very important aspect of the project is that this sector produces waste, generates effluents, and uses many chemicals. One focus has been to reduce water use by more than 20% in certain processes and to cut certain reagents, namely salt and sulphides, by 50%. Tannery waste is also being treated and incorporated into leathers. In addition to reducing water and energy consumption and applying shorter, more agile processes, there is a strong focus on using recycled materials in the production of soles and footwear. Currently, thermoplastic materials, which are the most used in soles, such as TR, TPU, and PVC, can be recycled.
Indeed, the circularity project is very focused on materials and production waste. Regarding post-consumer footwear recycling, the project coordinator publicly acknowledges that “future steps in this area will need to be taken under other financial frameworks.”
“Bio and Circular Thinking”: A Trend or an Urgency?
Is bio and circular thinking truly transforming our business, production, and consumption models? Or are we simply adjusting old habits with new language? What is its value? Is it a trend? Or an urgency?
Pedro Ventura, from Cartonagem Trindade, believes that the shift towards circularity depends on education, “as this is the only way to create a mindset that goes far beyond any laws that could be made on this matter.”
Filipe Carneiro, from LIPOR, agrees, adding that “textiles and footwear should be collected, but then conditions must be prepared for this recycled material to reach the industry to ensure circularity.” Of course, this circularity entails costs. Collection is the easy part; creating distribution chains for recycled material to serve the footwear cluster is the real challenge.
The problem lies in what we do with post-consumer footwear waste—it needs to be given value. “The way forward is to start seeing waste as a possible raw material,” he said. Therefore, end-of-life footwear faces a significant challenge, but also a great opportunity.
Filipe Carneiro also identifies an obstacle in recycling footwear “due to the multi-materials that make up the product, so the choice of materials is fundamental.” Artur Barros, from Simoldes, points out the same issue in the automotive industry: “Today the automotive sector still does not recycle post-life vehicles. The only parts currently recyclable are bumpers made of polypropylene,” he says.
He also notes the lack of bio-based materials for use in the industry. In fact, “thermoplastics are among the few materials we use today that are 100% recyclable.” Joana Meireles, from Atlanta, highlights that, currently, her company “only recycles 50% of its waste and there is still a long way to go in R&D to fully recycle all waste.”
Pedro Ventura and Artur Barros also identify logistics as a problem for business sustainability. “If we want to be an exporting economy, we need capable logistics with a low environmental footprint,” says Artur Barros. Pedro Ventura believes that “this burden cannot be placed on companies” because “the means to achieve it are lacking.” Both highlight the railway system as the greatest weakness in Portugal’s infrastructure.
Joana Meireles believes that “we must view circularity not as a cost, hindrance, fashion, or market trend, but as an opportunity to create value.” She also argues that circularity is a joint perspective for everyone, as “we may struggle to incorporate waste from our industry, but it could be the solution for another.” Thus, bio and circular thinking involves changing not only materials but also mindsets. Change lies at the intersection of companies, consumers, and the environment.