Director of Research at the Footwear Technological Centre (CTCP) and responsible for the BioShoes4all project – which aims to make the Portuguese footwear industry a benchmark in the development of sustainable solutions – Maria José Ferreira is an unmissable figure when it comes to sustainability.
More than 20 billion shoes are produced internationally each year. Practically 90% of this footwear is produced in Asia. Have we reached the limit?
The question of whether we have reached a limit is complex and multifaceted. Between 1992 and 2022, the world’s population grew from about five to eight billion people, but the global production of footwear increased at an even faster rate, almost tripling to reach 24 billion pairs per year. This is an impressive volume of footwear produced annually; however, assuming a uniform consumption distribution, three pairs per person per year could even be considered reasonable. However, in reality, it is noted that Europe and North America, with only about 14% of the world population, consume about 30% of the production (2022), about six pairs per person per year. In this context, if the desired average for the entire population is similar to that of these regions, output could grow.
These production and consumption volumes place the footwear sector under intense scrutiny, mainly due to the intensive use of the planet’s resources and potential environmental impacts, with regulation planned in Europe to promote the creation of eco-designed products that are durable, repairable, have a smaller environmental footprint, and are free from hazardous substances, traceable and circular.
Also, there is a widespread call for more responsible consumption, where there is investment in higher quality products that are comfortable, with aesthetics that combine fashion with timelessness and which are locally produced in an inclusive manner. And the adoption of new approaches including maintenance, cleaning, repair and sharing to prolong the lifespan of footwear before recycling.
All these measures should help to limit excessive consumption and promote a change in the type of products consumed, which will result in opportunities for footwear production in Europe.
There is a lot of “myth” and even “greenwashing” when it comes to the topic of sustainability. In your view, what should be valued?
The truth. Transparency. In recent years in the fashion industry, and in footwear in particular, the majority of companies and brands claim their products are more sustainable, that they incorporate recycled materials or have a lower carbon footprint, or they are biodegradable, and more. But they rarely provide evidence: that is to say, they rarely point to tests or certifications issued by independent bodies to prove these attributes. Moreover, such certifications are also becoming a business, so we must work to ensure they do not contribute to greenwashing. Tests and/or certifications should be carried out following protocols defined in national, European (EN) and international (ISO, OECD) standards.
It is essential that products identify their geographical origin and the composition of materials and products while also showing the customer the distinctive factors, particularly in terms of environmental impact, durability/quality, comfort, how to clean and maintain, recycling potential and basically prove what is being claimed. A simple way is to include a QR code or NFC label that allows customers and consumers to access the information.
In a changing world, what opportunities exist for the Portuguese footwear industry?
Portugal knows very well how to produce footwear. In recent decades, it has successfully invested strategically in innovation, design, human resource development, modernisation and internationalisation. In the past, Portuguese footwear made these strategic decisions to overcome the challenges of market liberalisation and the departure of brands that produced much of their output in Portugal. An industry that produced large amounts of blue, brown and black footwear became colourful, bold and “sexy”, which enabled it to increase the added value of footwear and exports. The current challenges are different, and we are better prepared, but we will not rest on our laurels and successes of the past.
In fact, the world is undergoing ever more rapid change. However, there are reliable indicators and opportunities for our industry. The customers and regulators in the countries to which we export want visually appealing products that are based on materials and processes that minimise the use of hazardous substances. Products that respect the environment, that are produced locally by people with good working conditions and salaries and which have a reasonable and appropriate selling price.
So, Portugal should invest in and lead the development of true and proven sustainable materials, footwear, leather goods and technologies that allow a reduction in the carbon footprint of products and limit the water and energy used to make each pair of footwear. This includes incorporating renewable materials, such as leather, and ensuring they are produced using renewable energy and that they have a greater percentage of recycled material in each pair. One of the advantages is our industry’s harmonious integration of companies producing materials, components, production equipment, software, footwear and leather goods, and the synchronisation of the interests of all towards sustainability.
Are climate change and the energy crisis happening? Can the Portuguese footwear industry make a difference?
The climate and energy crises are unavoidable realities impacting the lives of the world’s population. Many of our decisions can help to limit their impact. The Portuguese footwear industry has the capacity and willingness to establish a new reality that is based on a renewable, sustainable and circular economy.
When we produce quality footwear that will stay like new for six, seven or more years, when we opt for renewable materials that our planet can produce continually and regenerate, when we choose to recycle and circulate production materials or used footwear, when in each of our production and consumption decisions we consider their environmental and social impact, we can make an important contribution to sustainability and carbon neutrality.
How can the Bioshoes4All project change the Portuguese footwear industry?
BioShoes4All involves 70 partners, 20 research and development bodies and 50 companies. These are companies that are representative of the entire chain, including footwear and leather goods companies, tanneries, coated textiles, insoles, components, soles, software, production equipment, recycling and retail. From micro to large companies, they all seek to make a radical change to the sustainability of materials, chemicals, manufacturing processes, business models and final footwear and leather goods products.
BioShoes4All is the largest ever project in our industry and represents the largest investment in research, development, innovation and training carried out over such a short period, and this has all been made possible by the Portuguese Recovery and Resilience Programme and the Next Generation EU.
The manner in which it is organised and is being implemented, intervening in all strategic areas for the sustainability of products and companies in the cluster, with significant involvement from all industrial and R&D partners, coordinated by CTCP and led by APICCAPS, mean the project shows significant potential for transforming the Portuguese footwear sector and ensuring it has an international impact.
What will the products and materials of the future be like?
Innovative concepts and products are being created for footwear and leather goods: fashion, casual and work products for all age groups, from children to pensioners. New products are being created and refined based on studies that measure and reduce their environmental and carbon footprint and which look at the development and selection of materials and processes.
They are lightweight and appealing products that use a few different materials to enhance flexible production and recycling. The materials and products incorporate by-products of human or animal foodstuffs, including rice, cereals, olive pits, chestnuts, mussel shells, vine cuttings and algae among others, that reinforce or create new materials, insoles, reinforcements and soles. They make use of residues from national agroforestry industries, including pine bark, and coffee and extracts from olive trees in the leather tanning process. They recycle leather, components and footwear production residues to make new leather and components, including toecaps, heels, soles and footwear.
Photo: Vânia Carneiro